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A walk with your dog can be a soothing time spent with your canine best friend — or it can be a battle for control. The way your dog acts when he's on leash can cause serious problems. As a dog trainer, I frequently work with clients whose canines are pulling on the leash, mouthing the leash, and barking and lunging at the end of the leash. All of these behaviors are problematic, but all have solutions.
It should be no surprise that leash annoyances are so common in dogs; the leash restricts your dog’s ability to move as he wants, and so he does one — or all — of these behaviors in order to have a certain need met. The responsibility for fostering a more relaxed, controlled walk lies on the human side of the leash, though: Once you understand why your dog does the undesirable behavior, you can redirect him to a more constructive alternative.
Here are three common leash problems and solutions for each.
What it looks like: Your dog strains at the leash, nearly choking himself. This may be the way your
dog habitually walks, or perhaps the pulling only happens at the beginning of the walk or in high-distraction, exciting situations.
Why it happens: Dogs naturally want to pull against pressure rather than giving into it. Your dog learns that when he pulls, he is more likely to get where he wants to go — and to get there faster.
Dogs who pull have little connection with the human on the other end of the leash; they’re only interested in what’s in front of them.
How to change it: Gain control by only allowing your
dog to move forward when the leash is loose. As soon as your dog pulls hard enough to make the leash tight, stop in place and wait for a loose leash before continuing forward. For dogs who are especially resistant to change, use a verbal marker like “oops” to mark when the leash becomes taut, and then change direction with a gentle pull (no jerking) that hinders any forward motion. When a dog is pulling to get to something, like sniffing a bush or going into the dog park, only allow forward movement while he is on a loose leash. Once he has walked close enough to the area of interest, ask for a quick behavior, like a hand target or sit, and release him to sniff the bush or enter the dog park as a reward. In addition, carry treats to reward your canine every time he checks in and turns his head toward you or even in your direction. This increases your dog’s awareness of your presence and teaches him that looking at you is more rewarding than looking around him. Teach and reward a
heel on leash, or walking aligned next to you; this can be a useful alternative behavior when your dog is highly aroused. Your entire walk doesn’t need to be a heel, though — loose-leash walking allows your dog to explore and sniff, which is important for his mental health. Ask your dog to heel until he calms down or you pass the distraction, and then release him on a loose leash as a reward.
Management tool: Dogs are more apt to pull on back-clip harnesses, flat collars, choke chains and prong collars. To help manage pulling and gain more control on walks, use a front-clip harness that crosses the front of your dog's chest and gently nixes pulling. For dogs who are powerful and out of control, head halters are another good choice for hindering pulling.
What it looks like:
Your dog grabs the leash in his mouth. Some nibble and bite, while others pull, like a game of tug-of-war. This may be done while walking or when standing still with the leash on.
Why it happens: Some dogs do this frequently, all throughout the walk, while others only do it when they are over-the-top with nervous agitation. Having something in their mouth is calming for some dogs, especially those bred to retrieve objects, like Labradors. It’s also a game that gets attention and a reaction from people.
How to change it: Teach your dog an alternative behavior to do instead. For some dogs, merely asking for a heel while walking or rewarding a quiet behavior while waiting, such as a down, replaces the leash chewing. You can also take the fun out of unwanted mouthing by downplaying the behavior. Try using two leashes, one on a harness and the other on the collar. When your dog grabs one leash to mouth or chew, drop the leash to take away the resistance that is naturally created when you’re holding on to the leash. Switch between leashes as needed so that there is no fun tug available with the leash game.
Management tool: Swap your fabric leash for a chain leash. Chain leashes are not nearly as fun to chew on and can’t be grabbed or tugged as easily as a fabric leash. If your dog is chewing the leash simply because he wants something in his mouth, give him something he can carry, like a stuffed toy or ball, to serve as a type of pacifier during walks.
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